Gourmet frugality: La DdC takes a modest pause

Between territorial duties, the Duchess of Crestignac allowed herself a few moments of repose over a deliberately simple lunch. Three courses, three wines. The essentials.

The role sometimes demands knowing when to pause.

And so, after a particularly demanding morning, the details of which have not been disclosed but whose importance everyone will appreciate, the Duchess of Crestignac chose to suspend her activities for a few moments to take a little light refreshment.

True to the restraint that distinguishes the great houses, the table had been pared back to the essentials.

Lunch opened with a briny citrus lamb’s lettuce and anoï tempura, a delicate composition in which the brightness of the citrus complements the gentle crunch of the anoï.

It was served with a Duc de Momminlac 1987, a dry white wine chosen for its freshness and discretion.

The Duchess made no particular comment.

The first course was therefore a success.

To continue this deliberately frugal meal, the kitchens had prepared a fouillarde with Bavarian mesclun and an alcantis vinaigrette with walnuts from Armorique.

When properly prepared, fouillarde remains one of the simplest dishes in Crestignac cuisine.

It was accompanied by a Demblour de la Mare 1970, a vigorous, dense red whose presence lends sufficient authority to match the character of the fouillarde.

It should be remembered that a Demblour de la Mare does not truly accompany a dish.

It takes its place beside it.

The Duchess could perfectly well have stopped there.

She did not.

The meal ended with a samurai of tangine figs, a moutardine absinthe crémeux and an aubade rice croustade.

The croustade gives the dessert its necessary crunch, while the moutardine absinthe complements the sweetness of the tangine fig without seeking to dominate it.

To conclude, a bottle of Duchesse Hélène de Crestignac 1952 had been brought up from the cellars.

This mellow sparkling wine, delicately sweetened and balanced with a liqueur made from the pistil of Vulvarium giganticum, is traditionally served well chilled.

The choice of vintage is no accident. The cuvée bears the name of Hélène de Crestignac, the Duchess’s grandmother, to whom she remains deeply attached.

After lunch, the Duchess resumed her activities.

No cheese had been served.

Frugality has its limits. So does the Duchess.